Goin' Surfin…

So my 13 year old son has decided he wants to learn to surf. I don’t think anybody can even comprehend how much joy that brought me…. something I’ve thought about and dreamed of for years.

The opportunity to help him progress quickly…to help him avoid all of the same mistakes I made. The opportunity to teach him about design elements of surfboard construction. The opportunity to teach him about the impact on waves, from tides, swell direction, bottom contours and all the rest…

The chance to go on some road trips to different places north and south..The chance to teach him about the history and legacy he inherits from all of the HB surfing greats that have gone before him.


The opportunity to teach him proper wave etiquette…the chance to travel with him to some faraway destinations and experience that….the chance to explain the finer points of style so he doesn’t become some spastic kook flailing around and learns to incorporate some elements of style and grace into his surfing…

I get to watch his upper body grow strong from endless paddling. I get to watch him begin pushing his boundaries and taking off on larger and larger waves…I get to be there when he finally works up the physical endurance, ability and confidence to push over the ledge and drop into a massive bomb that may hurt or kill him…

And if I’m still up to it by the time he is ready….I get to drop in on him and stuff him deep in the barrel while I laugh my ass off…that… will be FANTASTIC!

And perhaps even be there to pull his unconscious ass up onto his board and force all the water out of his lungs and revive him. after a massive beatdown in some waves of consequence .

After that, I will do what my old man used to do to me…just tell him…”Your OK…get back out there …don’t be a pussy! ..LOL

I think I’m most looking forward to an early Autumn day in the near future when we can score an evening glass off session with the sun slowly sinking….just sitting on our boards talking bullshit while waiting for a set, while a pod of dolphins cruises by 10 feet away…

Welcome to surfing son. May it bring you every bit of joy and learning experience it has offered me. You take your place in a long history of HB boys who decided they wanted to turn the ocean into their personal playground.

You are going drag the old man out of retirement and help me to help myself in ways you will never know.

I’ve been waiting for you kid…lets do some summer dawn patrols before I go to work this summer…

Overjoyed? Are you fucking kidding me? That’s an understatement…


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